Citrine, Rose Cuts, and the Awe of the Ancient Rings Collection
As November brings crisp autumn air and shorter days to the Pacific Northwest, our eyes naturally turn toward stones that hold onto warmth. Enter Citrine - November’s golden birthstone, long celebrated as the "Light Maker" and the "Merchant’s Stone" for its sunny, honeyed amber hues.
In ancient times, jewelry makers treasured warm yellow gems to ward off winter darkness and bring vital energy to the wearer. At Erika Laureano Design, that exact reverence for antiquity comes alive at the bench, where carefully curated gemstones meet hand-worked, textured metals in our Ancient Rings & More Collection.
Old-World antiquity: Beyond the Commercial Cut
When most people picture gemstone rings, they envision machine-cut and faceted stones designed for a uniform sparkle. But when Erika creates pieces for her Ancient Rings & More Collection she folds metal over the stones creating a look of antiquity just dug up from the ground.
Citrine Cabochons - Smooth & Liquid: With a flat base and a smooth, polished dome, a cabochon cut gives Citrine the look of liquid amber or petrified sunlight. Cabochons are among the oldest gem-cutting styles in human history. Set into a mesh-embossed bezel, a glowing Citrine cabochon looks like a treasure unearthed from an ancient hoard. look for Erika’s latest cabochon citrine studs.
Rose Cut Citrine - Antique & Romantic. Originating in the 1500’s, the rose cut features a flat back crowned with triangular facets that mimic opening rose petals. Rather than bouncing harsh reflections, a rose cut catches candle-lit flickers across its broad surface facets. Its low profile allows the stone to sit low and flush against heavy, hand-planished metal.
Faceted Madeira Citrine. Named after the rich, amber-red wines of the Portuguese islands, Madeira Citrine is the rarest and most prized shade of citrine. Displaying deep reds and golden-brown or orange-ish undertones, setting a faceted Madeira Citrine into Erika’s hand-folded metal creates a striking dialogue—brilliant internal fire captured inside deliberate metalwork.
Crafted at the Bench: Where Metal Meets Stone
Every piece in the Ancient Rings collection begins with metal, a torch, and heavy studio machinery. Before any setting can hold a rose-cut or faceted stone, sheet form or metal melted down to create an ingot is annealed under a torch to relax its internal grain.
It is then passed through a rolling mill where Erika uses a variety of textures to emboss the metal: lace, fabric, brass screen, woven mesh or even corn husk are used to print rich, organic textures directly into the surface, and leveled under a hand-operated planishing hammer.
Setting a soft, glowing gem against those crisp, hand-hammered textures creates a striking dialogue between raw earth and polished light—a piece that feels deeply grounded, completely unique, and built to last generations.
See the Newest Bench Creations in Person
We are thrilled to launch over 50 brand-new styles of rings, earrings, necklaces and cuffs in our Ancient Rings & More Collection - including new designs featuring hand-planished metals and custom stone settings.
Demand for these new pieces has been so high that several have sold directly off the bench before Erika could even finish polishing them! If you have your eye on a specific piece, seeing them in person early is key.
Stop by our studio shop in historic downtown North Bend to explore the latest arrivals, or join us for in celebrating our 8 year anniversary anytime you stop in this fall.
